Wednesday, October 05, 2005

Another Sunday another procession

Ahh, aren't they sweet. It's a fair bet that if you go to the Plaza de Armas in Cusco on a Sunday morning, there will be something going on. I can´t work out if processions are such a way of life here because everyone wants a chance to demonstrate their marching, dancing and singing ability or if the fact that there are so many processions drives the continued vitality of traditional music and dance.

One fact is certain as a Peruvian you learn to march. To my eyes there's something faintly surreal about seeing a very smart 12 year old girl in knee high white socks, kilt, red jumper and matching red hair ribbon, with her white glove clad hands proudly holding the school banner.....goosestepping. But it's the smartest form of marching here and much appreciated by the local audience.

So on Saturday we saw a religious procession for San Pedro Nolasco y la Merced. The best bits of the procession for me were the little angels above, the army band playing out of tune at the back and ambling along with little discipline and the overall sense of community with people calling to their friends and chatting and waving as they liked.

On Sunday it was a celebration of the 100th anniversary of Salesiano, the foremost private boys school in town. The whole town seemed to be taking part, another excuse to march and wave at your friends?
- Attendance ranged from Peru Rail to the Ministery of Agriculture with their machines and trees! The female driver of the tractor and plough decked out in white and green ribbons was especially popular

- For onlookers it was a chance support their friends and children and to call out insults, this last one particularly favoured by groups of male onlookers

- Then the groups of students in order of the year they finished school. First was 1937, just the one gentleman with his sash proudly round him and supported by his daughter. He received huge applause. Then a jump to 1952 and every year thereafter. 1962 had a group of dancers with them which the crowd loved, especially the men with huge energy, flashing cowboy style costumes and great skill

We watched until 1970 but after two hours slipped away to other pursuits. I know they finished because last Sunday we were passing through the Plaza de Armas on our way to Sacsayhuaman and were waylaid by the procession to celebrate Tourism Day. Every company involved in tourism took part and there were lots of incredible indigenous dance displays.

Sadly I'll miss this Sunday's activity as we're off to the Sacred Valley to nose around the Inca sites there, but I'm sure if you're in town there'll be something to see!

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