The scene was the volleyball stadio of the Club. Concrete seating round the court, the sun had just gone down and music was blaring from speakers as people arrived, greeted their friends and sat down. Obviously (I'm English) we were early and obviously (it's Peru) it started half an hour late. I can't quiet adjust my head to that, even though I know it's true. There was a proper brass band and they were very good. It's hard to describe the music but brash (all the brass), full of life, fast, joyful, very Peruvian.
When the dancing got underway the compere said "couples take the floor" and it was filled with couples ranging from little tiny tots (you start learning at 3 or 4 years old) up to elegant veteran couples in their sixties, less energetic but more poised with their years of experience. Not everyone had a partner and for some the point was to bring your child, show off their dance skills and find them a partner. The couple next to us had a son of about 8 who danced beautifully and they were "match making" all evening.
The dance is lovely, a romantic flirtatious dance. The stance of both dancers is very proud with heads angled back for maximum effect. They don't really hold each other, although at times they circle with arms outstretched and him guiding her. At other times they stand very close with arms uplifted and intertwined. To set the whole thing off they both carry white hankerchiefs which are waved, so at times the whole arena seemed alive with large fluttering white hankerchiefs.
I thought as I sat there last night, in the warm air, with people of every age together enjoying themselves and the joyful dance and the uplifting music, that this is happiness. Times of sheer pleasure when you are totally caught up in the sensation and pleasure of the moment.
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